I’m not a purist about what chocolates people like to eat. But I’ll admit I cringe a little inside when people refer to my chocolates as candy. A recent New York Times article* about the increasing lack of chocolate in “chocolate candy” makes me feel better about considering the chocolates I make to be in a completely different category.
According to the Times, sharp increases in the cost of cacao has led several candy manufacturers to reduce the amount of cacao ingredients** in their milk chocolate products. Once that amount falls below the already low 10% FDA*** requirement, products like Rolos and Hershey’s Mr. Goodbar can’t use the words “milk chocolate” on their packaging. Instead, you’ll see labels using descriptions like “rich chocolate candy,” “chocolatey,” or “chocolate candy.”
By comparison, European milk chocolates must contain at least 25% of cacao ingredients; the French Valhrona milk chocolate I use has 40%. People often think they’re imagining that candy bought in Europe tastes much better than it does at home. Rolos and Cadbury’s Dairy Milk bars are just two examples of candies that are made differently in Europe than in the U.S.
Many low-cost dark chocolate products also contain a lesser amount of cacao ingredients (Hershey’s Special Dark Bar contains 45%) compared to 70% or more in higher-quality dark chocolate. Cheaper dark chocolate typically contains more sugar (often the first ingredient) than more expensive products. Milk fat and other oils are frequently used to reduce the amount of cacao butter, a healthier but more expensive ingredient.
The quality of chocolate is not just about the percentages of ingredients. There are “commodity” cacao beans—bought in bulk by big manufacturers—and “fine” cacao beans bought primarily by smaller companies and craft chocolate makers who are focused on quality over quantity.
As a very small chocolate company, I too am much more focused on quality and flavor. I encourage you to taste the difference between the chocolates I make and what you can buy cheaply at CVS. But I’m also OK with whatever chocolate or “chocolatey” treats make you happy.
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*What’s Missing From Your Favorite Chocolate Bar? It May Be Chocolate, by Clair Brown, The New York Times, October 30, 2025
**Cacao beans have two essential ingredients for making chocolate: cacao mass (also called cacao liquor) and cacao butter.
***The U.S. Food and Drug Administration sets the regulations for chocolate products.


